REENACTING: NEW KIND OF WAR
By Blair Howard
Battlefields of the Civil War: A Guide for Travelers
Introduction
Reenacting the battles of the
Civil War is becoming a popular hobby. Just as they did all those years ago,
men and women from all walks of life are setting forth to fight for cause and
country: laborers, doctors, dentists, lawyers, company executives and postal
clerks leave behind their briefcases, tools and homes and head for the killing
fields. This time, however, they are doing it for different reasons. And
today's Civil War soldiers are just as serious about what they're doing as were
their forbears back in 1861. Oh, they'll tell you they're doing it for fun, and
perhaps they believe it, but it takes a dedicated individual to spend several
days several times a year out in all weathers being ordered about in an
uncomfortable facsimile of a uniform that was little more than an instrument of
torture when worn for real.
These men and women live for
a few days by the same military code as did the armies of the Civil War. They
carry the same weapons, though most are only replicas - the real thing being
far too valuable to risk - and belong to units that bear the famous, honored
names of the past. And those regiments mean just as much to the modern-day
reenactor as they did to those who fought and died for them.
The dedicated reenactor loves
what he does. He has feelings that cannot properly be described; you'll simply
have to try it to understand. There's nothing quite like the chill in the air on
a crisp, clear early morning in fall when a campground on one of the great
fields of glory begins to stir. Or the excitement as the troops are called into
line of battle, simulated or not. And, to those who know, the charge is just as
real, just as thrilling, just as awesome as it must have been all those years
ago. The blue-white smoke over the battle line is just as thick, the gunfire
just as loud, and the yelling just as enthusiastic. To stand and watch as the
gun crews work feverishly at their great weapons, trying for all they're worth
to achieve a rate of fire that was second nature to the artillery man of long
ago, is to get entirely caught up in the moment. Yes, reenacting is addictive.
Do it once, even just to watch, and you're hooked.
Having said that, there are a
couple of ways you can become involved and enjoy reenacting. You can watch the
action or you can join in, on one side or the other.
To watch the action requires
little more than a basic knowledge of the Civil War and the events played out
during those terrible years. The reenactment of any given battle is rarely
historically accurate. Lack of numbers and an inability of those involved to
understand the mind-set of one who might have spent a couple of years, or more,
experiencing conditions and hardships that no one could even imagine today, are
the principle reasons for this. But, where the reenactment is to be played out
and how many attend also significantly impacts the authenticity of the event.
For instance, at the first reenactments of the Battle of Tunnel Hill in north
Georgia there were several hundred Confederate soldiers complete with two
batteries of artillery and commanded by a full complement of officers from a
general down. This significant force was pitted against no more than a couple
of dozen Union soldiers with a single three-inch ordnance rifle - a tiny
contingent commanded by a captain. Most of the smaller reenactments are like
this, and if you add the inevitable boyish enthusiasm and the desire for
"a good day out," it's no wonder the event turns out to be a little
inaccurate, to say the least. Still, it's fun to watch, and there's no doubt
that spectators do become caught up in the moment, many of them leaving the
event determined to take a more active part in the next one.
And that brings us to those
who do the real work at a reenactment, the participants themselves. These
people are usually die-hard Civil War buffs. Many are amateur historians; some
are professional historians; some just like to get out there and play; all are
enthusiasts. And you have to be very enthusiastic indeed to spend $10,000 on a
reproduction canon and all its accouterments, another several hundred dollars
on an artillery captain's uniform, and heaven only knows what on the means to
transport it all around the country.
Most reenactors, however,
cannot afford such luxury. Just like the average soldier 135 years ago, they
are infantrymen, the backbone of the army. Their uniforms and weapons are
authentic, though reproduction, down to the underwear, and they go to war with
a will that would rival that of the first volunteers of 1861, be it only for a
weekend or so.
Then there is the civilian
reenactor: the doctors, nurses, photographers, and the like. These people also
play important parts, just as their ancestors did way back when. Their dress,
too, is authentic. They man the field hospitals and look after the wounded and
the dying in much the same way as did the field surgeons and staff all those
years ago. True, the wounds are rarely more serious than a simple bump on the
head, but the enthusiasm inside and outside the tents is real enough.
Most reenactments are
accompanied by a tented village, a trade fair, if you will, where you can
purchase all sorts of Civil War memorabilia, from books to photographs, from
reproduction uniforms to fine dresses, flags, unit histories, buttons, spent
bullets, cheap souvenirs and a plethora of other bits and pieces. These
villages, the tented shops and refreshment stands, are run by the modern day
version of the sutler. The sutler was a merchant who sold goods and supplies
directly to the troops. They followed the armies from battlefield to
battlefield, riding a covered wagon crammed full with everything a soldier
might need to maintain his existence. They would stay on the road, following
the army for months on end, leaving only to replenish their stocks. Some were
rogues, but most were honest businessmen fulfilling a need. The same is true of
the modern sutler. You'll find authentic antiques for sale alongside reproductions
being passed off as authentic. Be careful.
Then there are the
photographers, those who follow in the footsteps of men like Matthew Brady.
They dress the part and tote reproduction wooden cameras that sometimes house
modern 35mm equipment. These people record the action, make portraits of the
soldiers, and generally add a little extra authenticity to the event. You'll
see one or two at every reenactment.
And then there are the social
events that usually accompany a reenactment: balls, dances and dinners. Here
the participants go all out. The ladies wear elegant ball gowns of the period;
the men wear dress uniforms. To attend one of these events is to step back in
time. These people talk, or try to, just as they might have 135 years ago; they
affect the manners and accents of the mid-19th century, and they thoroughly
enjoy themselves.
How Do You Get
Started?
To watch, all you have to do
is turn up in plenty of time, pick a good spot, and settle down. Bring some
food and plenty to drink - soft drinks only. You may even want to arrive a
little early, a couple of hours or so, and watch the units marching and
drilling, perhaps breaking camp, or maneuvering into position. You'll probably
have to pay to watch. Entrance fees run from a couple of dollars on up. Don't
worry. Your small investment will be repaid many times over.
To become a reenactor you
only have to ask. Most units are short on numbers, though long on enthusiasm,
and will welcome you with open arms. Attend a reenactment and you're sure to
find a unit that will take you on. If not, you can make inquiries in your home
town. The local historical society is the best place to start. If you don't
have a historical society you can try the library. Be aware, though, that even
though these are basically weekend soldiers they will expect you to make a
commitment. You'll be required to turn up regularly, learn the history of the
Civil War in general, and that of the unit you are joining in depth. You'll
start out as a private soldier, be taught all about the weapons and tactics of
the times, and you'll drill and march just as rookie soldiers would have in
1861. The men that run these units and do the training are just as effective as
were their peers of 130 years ago, perhaps even more so. You'll be expected to
kit yourself out, at no little expense, and turn out in all weathers. You'll go
to camp, train hard, and you'll fight. You'll get caught up in the action,
which will seem real beyond belief. You'll get dirty like never before, and
you'll return home at the end of the day tired, even worn out, but fulfilled.
Authenticity
Most reenactments are small
affairs, often hosted by a local historical society or Civil War unit. Here,
perhaps a couple of hundred men and women get together for a weekend. In most
cases it's no more than a gathering where the participants get into character
and live the life for a couple of days; it might even include the reenactment
of some small, insignificant skirmish. Then there are the large national events
where units from all across the country participate. Here the reenactors,
sometimes as many as 10,000, refight a major battle. Events such as these will
draw spectators from around the world. Small or large, local or national,
authenticity is the watchword. Nothing that will detract from the overall
illusion of perfection will be allowed. Even press photographers are asked to
wear appropriate gear or stand outside the line of sight.
Modern items - cameras, etc.
- may be used but should be covered by something of the period. Even in camp,
out of sight of spectators, at least until they're allowed in on the morning of
the reenactment, you'll be expected to maintain the illusion. This means modern
sleeping bags, frowned on in some circles, should be covered by a period
blanket, and removed from sight when the spectators arrive. Drinks should be
kept in period containers - canteens and bottles, not aluminum cans.
But there's more to living
the period than just wearing and carrying the gear. Doing without all the trappings
of life in the 1990s - food, clothing, conveniences - will teach you more about
the history of the period than you could ever learn from a book. And you'll be
expected to affect the grace and mannerisms of a time long gone.
Authenticity also provides a
deep sense of belonging, a way of casting off the worries and stress of modern
day life, at least for a couple of days. Far away from the asphalt roads,
modern buildings, fast cars, heavy trucks, telephones and computers, you'll
find things proceed at a much slower, more relaxed pace. The company is
friendly and outgoing, the conversation lively, and the atmosphere exciting.
Uniforms
You'll be expected to
purchase an authentic period uniform in keeping with those worn by the
particular unit you're joining. Check with the powers that be before you spend
any money.
They'll provide a basic list
of what you'll need.
In the early days of the
Civil War, especially in the south, the uniforms worn by volunteer units often
bordered on the eccentric. They were rarely practical, but designed more to
attract the opposite sex and new recruits than for everyday life on the march.
Uniforms of the period just prior to the outbreak of the war were influenced by
those of earlier times - bright colors and lots of gold braid were the order of
the day. So were the hats. At first, these came in every shape and size, even
turbans. Some uniforms had their origins in Napoleonic France, some in the
British army of a century before. Confusion on the field reigned supreme. Friendly
fire was responsible for large numbers of casualties. Even the flags looked the
same. Slowly, however, after the first great battles had been won and lost,
things began to change. The bright colors were discarded and more standard
modes of dress were adopted.
Confederate Uniforms. By the
spring of 1862 the standard Confederate army uniform consisted of a gray jacket
or frock coat with light blue or gray trousers. In practice, however, few
Southern units (never call them Rebels) ever looked alike. Grays varied, not
only from unit to unit, but from individual to individual. Some were light,
some were dark, some were not gray at all. Confederate soldiers, perhaps from
necessity, included more civilian items of dress in their uniforms than did
their Union counterparts, especially where headgear was concerned.
Trousers were made of heavy
wool, fine in winter when the weather was dry, but torture in hot or wet
weather. They were worn loose, with plenty of room for long underwear and to
move, bend or squat. They never had the sharp creases we've come to expect in
modern uniforms. Jackets were also loose-fitting. The shell jacket must have
been uncomfortable, especially if it didn't fit properly, and most of them
didn't. The frock coat was often heavy and restrictive, but warm in winter;
uncomfortably so in summer. Your prospective unit will dictate which style you
should buy.
Hats were as much a personal
statement as a part of the uniform. Two styles were popular: the familiar kepi
or the more practical slouch hat. The slouch or plantation hat was more popular
because its wide brim kept out the sun and rain. You'll probably be allowed to
wear whichever style suits you best.
In the early days of your reenacting
military career it's probably best to borrow your uniform and weapon. It
wouldn't be wise to invest a lot of money in clothing and equipment, only to
realize you're unsuited to the pastime. Spare uniforms, loaners, are kept on
hand by most units for just such a purpose.
Union Uniforms. Most Union
troops wore light blue woolen pants, although some did wear dark blue pants.
The regulation jacket was a dark blue, knee-length, woolen frock coat, but some
units did wear a waist-length shell jacket. What you will wear will depend very
much on your chosen unit. Be sure to check before you buy; some outfits will
not allow anything that isn't authentic to that particular unit.
The uniform shirt might have
been any of a number of colors ranging from dark to light blue, gray or white.
During the early days of the
war, the kepi was the most popular style of hat for the Union soldier. Toward
the end, however, mostly because the kepi didn't give much protection from the
elements, many adopted the wide-brim slouch hat, which gave more protection
from the sun and rain. There were several styles of slouch hat, but the most
popular was undoubtedly the one named for General William Hardee. The Hardee
was a black hat with a wide brim turned up on one side and fastened in position
with a brass pin, usually in the form of an eagle.
Other styles, the wheel hat,
several styles of straw hat, and even panamas were the legacy of the Mexican
war and were worn by one and all well into the 1860s.
And then there were the hat
decorations. We've all seen them in movies: the golden cords adorned with
golden acorns worn on cavalry officer's hats. But there were so many more unit
badges, corps badges, regimental numbers and company letters, all worn by the
foot soldier; the bugle was worn by mounted infantry. What will adorn your
chosen hat will depend upon the unit to which you belong.
Shirts. Most shirts, on both
sides, were pullovers. They were made mostly from flannel or muslin, and those
worn by Union troops were often dark blue and, in warm weather, were worn over
a muslin shirt instead of the heavy woolen jacket. Shirt pockets were rare.
Boots - Confederate and
Union. In the early days of the war, boots on both sides were plentiful. They
were tough and strongly made from hide leather. The most common style worn by
soldiers in both armies was the "Jefferson bootie," so named for the
Confederate president who approved its use by Federal troops when he was the
United States Secretary of War. It was a heavy, square-toed boot that covered
the ankle. Union versions were made with the smooth side of the leather out,
Confederate models with the smooth side in.
Soldiers in the cavalry, and
mounted infantry units, were allowed to wear high-topped boots with the pants
tucked into the tops. Other than that, only officers were allowed to wear such boots.
There's been a lot made of
the fact that, especially during the later stages of the war, many Confederate
solders were reduced to marching and fighting in bare feet. Well, that's true,
but not always out of necessity. Soldiers in the ranks on both sides often went
barefoot by choice in the summer months, just as they did in civilian life.
Socks. These, believe it or
not, were not so very different from those worn today. There's not much you can
do with the design of a sock. They were made mostly of heavy wool, were
hand-knitted by the ladies waiting at home, and were much darned and patched in
the field. They were washed, mended, and worn until they literally fell off the
feet. Many were knitted by the soldiers themselves. Socks, especially in winter
when leather shoes became water-logged, not only kept the feet warm, but also
protected them from chaffing, and thus helped prevent blisters.
Underwear. There was little
difference between what was worn in the Union and Confederate armies. During
the 19th century, soldiers, and civilians for that matter, wore more underwear
than we do today. The longjohns of the movies were just that, movie props. They
didn't become common until the later part of the 19th century, well after the
Civil War had ended.
The underwear of the Civil
War era, officer and common soldier alike, was an earlier version of the
longjohns: a two-piece affair with long sleeves and legs that covered the body
almost entirely - this as much out of a strong sense of modesty as a desire to
keep warm. White and red were the popular colors, although the red quickly
turned to pink with wear and washing. So, what will you wear? It's best, of
course, that you wear something warm: longjohns or thermals, or both. If so, be
sure you keep them covered and out of sight.
Weapons
Firearms. The most popular
weapon, then and now, on both sides, was the Springfield rifle musket, Model
1861, simply called by the soldiers that carried it, the Springfield.
The Springfield was a little
more than five feet long and weighed in at just over nine pounds. It was a .58
caliber -just a little more than a half-inch - weapon with an effective range
for a regular soldier of about 500 yards, although sharp-shooters could kill a
man at twice that range.
The 1853 Enfield was also
popular with soldiers on both sides. Made in England with a caliber of .577, it
was more accurate than the Springfield and, in the right hands, deadly at well
over 1000 yards. The Enfield was imported by both sides in vast numbers.
Both of these weapons were
three-banded. Shorter weapons, carbines and the like, were two-banded.
Carbines or musketoons were
much shorter, and less accurate, than the infantry long-rifles and were used
mostly by cavalry units and mounted infantry.
As to the famed repeating
rifles, these didn't become widely available until 1863, and then only to
solders who could afford to purchase them themselves - as did the members of
the famous John Wilder's mounted infantry units that caused so much havoc among
Longstreet's soldiers at Chickamauga. It's doubtful that your unit will allow
such weapons.
All reenactor units insist
that every rifle musket have three bands; this as much for safety as
authenticity.
A word of warning: if you're
lucky enough to own an antique musket, don't use it while reenacting. Not only
because it's a valuable piece and might get damaged, but because time may well
have weakened the barrel and working parts. An exploding rifle is a terrible
thing to behold, and the damage it does is devastating.
How about pistols? Even
though you may have seen Civil War era portraits of young bloods brandishing or
wearing large pistols, unless you're an officer, they are not appropriate.
Swords, too, are reserved for officers, except for members of cavalry units who
are allowed to wear a cavalry saber.
You should also be aware that
if you're under 16 you probably won't be allowed to carry a rifle; if you're
between the ages of 16 and 18 you'll be allowed to carry a rifle, but you won't
be allowed to fire it. These rules are applied, mostly for insurance reasons,
but also for safety.
Gunpowder. Black powder,
gunpowder, is rated by the size of its grain from fg (1f) to ffffg (4f). The
coarsest, 1f, is used for cannons; the finest, 4f, is used as the primer for
flintlock weapons. Revolvers, single shot pistols and rifles under .45 caliber
use 3f powder. Larger weapons, rifle muskets of .577 and .58 caliber as were
common in both armies during the Civil War, use 2f powder. So, 2f is what you
should use, too.
There are several commercial
brands of gunpowder. Of these, Goex and Pyrodex are the best known. Pyrodex is
not recommended for reenacting. It's a black powder substitute used mostly for
live ammunition. It requires magnum caps, burns slowly, and, without the
compression of a bullet in the barrel, it makes little noise when fired as a
blank. On the other hand, Goex is a true black powder, burns much cleaner than
Pyrodex, and makes a satisfying BANG! when fired blank.
Both types of gunpowder can
be bought at most sporting goods stores. It comes in convenient one-pound cans,
but should always be stored in a steel container, preferably an army surplus
ammunition box, in a cool place where the kids can't get hold of it. Gunpowder
seems to have a magnetic attraction for boys of all ages. Back in my youth, I
used to dismantle fireworks to get a supply of the stuff. Very dangerous, very
stupid.
Paper Cartridges. You can buy
these ready-made at some of the larger events, but most reenactors prefer to
roll their own; during the winter, many units have cartridge rolling parties.
These are often social events, and can be a lot of fun. If you want to try your
hand, it's quite easy. All you need is a supply of 2f black powder, a short
piece of half-inch wooden dowel, slightly tapered at the end, some old
newspaper or some pre-cut cartridge papers - these can often be bought at local
reenactments - and some strong thread.
If you decide to cut your own
cartridge papers, take a sheet of newspaper and cut trapezoids from it: 4 1/4
inches along the base, 5 1/4 inches along one side, three inches along the
other, then make a slanting cut that joins the ends of the two sides together.
Roll the paper around the dowel and leave about a quarter-inch over the tapered
end. You'll tie off the longer end of the trapezoid. Place the dowel with its
roll of paper still around it in something that will hold it upright while you
tie off the end of the paper. Use your thread to tightly tie the tip of the
paper. Now slide the dowel out of the resulting tube and pour a measured amount
of black powder into the opening: the recommended measure is 60 grains of
2fblack powder, and it's best that you don't exceed this. You can, if you like,
place a small ball of cotton wool where the ball would normally go, but it's
not necessary. If you do, you can use the dowel to tamp the wool into the
bottom of the cartridge before you apply the charge. After you've charged the
cartridge, pinch the paper in toward the center of the cartridge, fold it fiat,
tightly against the powder, first one way to make a crease, and then the other.
Final]y, fold the flattened tail of the cartridge back so that it lies toward
the tie-off tail end.
If you don't want to go to
all that trouble, you can always buy ready-made paper rolls sold in boxes of
100 or more at many of the larger events. All you have to do is fill them with
the required amount of black powder, close the ends, and you're ready to go;
simple, but a little more expensive than the do-it-yourself paper cartridge.
Bayonets. The Civil War era
bayonet was an unwieldy weapon, 18 inches or so in length, triangular, with
dull edges and a sharp point. It turned an already over-long rifle into
something that was hard to handle at best, and downright dangerous at worst. Bayonets
were carried by all soldiers on both sides throughout the war. They were fixed
over the end of the barrel via a socket that locked over the front sight.
Though fearsome to behold by an enemy on the receiving end of a charge, they
were not an effective weapon, and rarely used with any real effect, except in
the movies, of course. Even Chamberlain's famous charge downhill at the Battle
of Gettysburg produced fewer than 100 casualties. Although, when it was used
effectively, the resulting wound was often fatal, not so much from the severity
of the injury as from the inevitable infection that was almost always its
aftermath.
The bayonet was, however,
even from its inception long before the Civil War, one of the first real
psychological weapons of war. One can only imagine the horrifying spectacle a
raging, screaming soldier, brandishing one of these awful looking weapons, must
have presented as he bore down at full speed, fully intent on ramming the thing
deep into you. It's no wonder, then, that most soldiers, when on the receiving
end of a bayonet charge, simply turned and ran.
But the mighty bayonet served
many more purposes. Around camp it was ideal for hanging a coffee pot above the
fire, holding a chunk of meat or chicken above the flames, and so on.
Care and Maintenance of
Weapons and Equipment. It's not wise to wash woolen items too often. Wool has
natural water-repellent properties that will be destroyed by constant washing.
When you do wash your woolen items you should do so by hand, only in cold water,
and then they should be hung out to dry, preferably in sunshine, on a
clothesline; never use a washer and dryer. If you do, the uniform that emerges
will not fit even GI Joe. You can, however, have your uniform dry-cleaned. If
you do, make sure that the items are returned to you un-ironed. Wool becomes
shiny if ironed without a cloth between it and the iron, and then again, Civil
War uniforms never had a crease down the trousers or on the sleeves of the
jacket; that was a later invention.
Brass items were often
allowed to tarnish. Steel was oiled to prevent rust.
Your rifle, the most
expensive part of your investment, should be cleaned thoroughly after each
event. Black powder leaves a great deal of residue in the barrel. During the
Civil War, this was such a problem that, after firing only a few rounds, it
became more and more difficult, eventually impossible, to ram the bullet down
the barrel.
To clean your rifle you'll
need to remove the barrel from the weapon, then pour warm, soapy water down the
barrel to loosen the residue. Once this has been done you can use a wad and
cleaning rod to remove what's left. Don't pour water down the barrel while it's
still attached to the stock. If you do, water will inevitably creep into the
crevices between stock and works, thus causing rust; water's not good for the
wood either.
Among many other items you'll
find on sale at most of the larger events will be a variety of cleaning tools.
One you should buy is a bristle, a small round brush that attaches to the end
of the ramrod or cleaning rod. It does a great job of cleaning the inside of
the barrel. Just make sure you get one that's the right size for your
particular weapon. The worm and bullet pull are also useful tools. Both attach
to the end of the ramrod or cleaning rod. The worm is used to remove the
remains of unburned powder and paper from the barrel, the pull to remove an
unfired ball.
Finally, when you feel the
weapon is clean, reassemble the barrel to the stock, and then wipe it down with
an oily rag. This will prevent rust and help to repel any water you might
contact during your next time out in the field.
Equipment
The Knapsack. These, and
haversacks, were issued to both sides at the beginning of the war, and were
carried throughout the conflict by soldiers on the Union side. Confederate
soldiers, however, rarely carried them after the first year of the war.
They came in many different
styles. What you carry will depend largely on the unit you join.
Mess Kits. Soldiers on both
sides carried a mess kit. This consisted of a tin cup, tin plate, knife, fork
and spoon. There was little difference between Union and Confederate issue. The
cup was large, often with at least a two-pint capacity; the plate, some eight
inches in diameter, after only limited use was always dented and beaten up;
your irons -knife, fork and spoon should, of course, be of the period. Mess
kits can be found for sale at most large, and some small, events.
The Canteen. This was THE
essential part of the Civil War soldier's equipment. He could get by for days,
if he had to, and that was often the case, with little or no food. But the
long, forced marches through the choking dust raised by thousands of marching
feet meant that a soldier was always thirsty and had to drink often.
Canteens of several different
styles were issued to troops on both sides, but almost all were made to the
same basic design. They were round, had a spout closed off with a cork that was
held by a small chain. Some had woolen covers of one color or another and, although
no one knows for sure, it's thought that these were blue for the union side and
gray for the Confederate side; some covers were brown. Some canteens were made
of wood and will leak if allowed to dry out. They soon seal themselves,
however, when refilled.
Canteen straps are
traditionally very long. This causes problems when you're moving quickly. New
recruits to reenacting are tempted to hold the canteen in place by putting
their belt over the straps, thus securing the canteen close to their side.
Don't do this. Not only will it label you as a rookie, you'll have to take off
the belt every time you want to drink, and this can be something of a problem
at the height of battle, even a simulated battle.
What Shall I Purchase
First?
This is a fair question, and
the answer is that you should buy those items that are the most difficult to
borrow: rifle and boots. When you have these two essential pieces you should
put together the basic necessary equipment: uniform jacket, hat, pants, belt,
suspenders, socks, shirt, canteen, knapsack, cartridge box, and a bayonet and
scabbard. Give it a few weeks, at least, before you begin to buy on a grand
scale. Once you've decided you're in for the long haul, however, you should
make efforts to obtain as much equipment as you can as soon as possible.
Your boots will be the most
important part of your uniform. Just as the Civil War soldier of old did, so
you will you do your share of marching and drilling. Buy an ill-fitting pair of
boots and you'll surely regret it. Always try them on before you make your
purchase. You'll spend most of your reenacting time in them, even asleep. Make
sure there's plenty of room for socks; you'll need at least a couple of pairs
in cold weather.
Where Can I Find
Weapons & Equipment?
The following is a list of
sellers and manufacturers from whom you can purchase your every need. Most of
them will deal direct through the mail and have catalogs to support their
businesses. It's recommended that you find a supplier, or suppliers, from among
these names. They are all known for their fair dealings, and the authenticity
of their products. Almost all are small businesses. Their owners are
enthusiasts, and will go out of their way to help with answers to your questions.
On the other hand, you should be wary of the many retail stores dealing in
souvenirs; their prices are high, and the quality of their merchandise is often
shoddy.
Uniforms
Tim Allen, 1429 Becket Road,
Eldersburg, MD 21784. 410549-5145. Confederate and civilian hats.
Lynn Ball, 702 N. Spruce
Avenue, Goldsboro, NC 27534. Hats.
Ray Bass, Route 2, Box 4R,
Newton Grove, NC 28366. 919-5940070. Shirts, underwear, shoes and suspenders.
Bolivar Boutique, Route 1,
Box 407, Walkerton, IN 46574. 219-586-3586. Ladies' period clothing and
accessories. Free catalog.
Isaac Cantrell & Co, 933
Westedge Drive, Tipp City, OH 45371.513-667-3379. Uniforms.
County Cloth, Inc., 13797-C
Georgetown Street NW, Paris, OH 44669. 216-862-3307. Fax 216-862-3604. Top
quality goods. Confederate and Union fabrics, patterns and pre-cut uniform
kits. Catalog $5.
Crescent City Sutler, 127810
Highway 57N, Evansville, IN 47711.812-938-4217. Male and female clothing,
military and civilian. Also equipment and other supplies. Catalog $3.
Dirty Bill's Sutlery, 7574
Middleburg Road, Detour, MD 21757.401-775-1865. Hats, military and civilian.
SASE for brochure.
D.L. Roder, Clothier, 3607
Highway 48 North, Nunnelly, TN 37137. 931-729-5597. Uniforms.
Fugawee Corp., 3127 Corrib
Drive, Tallahassee, FL 32308. 800-749-0387. Fax 904-893-5742. Jefferson
bootees; comfort guaranteed; available in all sizes from 5E through 14EEE.
Catalog $3.
Gettysburg Sutler, 424 R.
East Middle Street, Gettysburg, PA 17325. 717-337-9669. Top quality,
museum-grade reproductions: male, female and children, military and civilian.
Goldberg Textile Co., 2495
South Alden Street, Salt Lake City, UT 84106. 801-476-2343. Uniforms and
uniform kits.
Grand Illusions, 108A East
Main Street, Newark, DE 19711. 302-366-0300. Full-service outfitter of period
clothing for men and women. They supplied the uniform and civilian clothing for
the movie Gettysburg. Catalog $3.
His Lady and the Soldier
Sutlery, 851 Kaypat Drive, Hope, MI 48628. 517-435-3518. Small goods -jewelry
and accessories - for male and female reenactors. Catalog $2.
L&H Hats, 179 Melville
Street, Dundas, ON L9H 2A9, Canada. 905-627-7492. Civilian and military hats,
male and female.
Missouri Boot and Shoe Co.,
951 Burr Crossing Road, Neosho, MO 64850. 417-451-6100. Top quality
reproduction boots and shoes. Catalog $2.
Petticoat Junction, 307
Lakeside Avenue, Angola, NY 14006. 716-549-4998. Period clothing for men,
military uniforms and civilian. SASE for catalog.
Salt Springs Sutler, 5645
Gulf Drive #1, New Port Richy, FL 34652. Period military uniforms, ladies'
clothing, eyeglasses. Catalog free.
Greg Starbuck, 1581 General
Booth Boulevard, #107, Virginia Beach, VA 23454. 804-583-2012. Kepis.
Suckerboys Clothing, 825 11th
Street, Chaleston, IL 61920. Period clothing, male and female.
Uniforms of Antiquity, PO Box
613B, Mena, AR 71953. Military uniforms and kits.
Uriah Cap and Clothier, 220
Old Route 30, PO Box 93, McKnightstown, PA 17343. 717-337-3929. Handmade period
headgear.
Winchester Sutler, 270C
Shadow Brook Lane, Winchester, VA 22603. 703-888-3595. Fax 703-888-4632.
Military and civilian period clothing. Catalog $4.
Weapons & Equipment
Border States Leatherworks, Route 4, 14 Appleblossom Lane, Springdale, AR
72764. 717-259-9081. Leather goods and weapons. Catalog $2.
Cartridges Unlimited, 3253
Nebraska Street, St. Louis, MO 63118.314-664-4332. Black powder, cartridges and
percussion caps. Catalog $3.50.
The Cavalry Shop, PO Box
12122, Richmond, VA 23241. Cavalry equipment, artillery gear, uniforms, etc.
Dixie Gun Works, Gunpowder
Lane, Union City, TN 38261. 901-885-0700. Black powder supplies. Catalog $4.
Dixie Leatherworks, PO Box
8221, Paducah, KY 42002. Period leather goods, haversacks, etc. Catalog $2.
Drummer Boy, Christian Hill
Road, RR 4, Box 7198, Milford, PA 18337. 717-296-7611. Firearms, tinware,
insignia, buttons, leather goods and uniforms. Catalog $1.
Fairoaks Sutler, Route 2, Box
1100, Spotsylvania, VA 22553. 703-972-7744. Wide range of equipment. SASE for
catalog.
Fall Creek Sutlery, PO Box
92, Whitestown, IN 46075. 317482-1861. Fax 317-769-5335. E-mail
afj5577@aol.com. Civil War era weapons, uniforms, shoes & boots, leather
goods, tents, etc. Large catalog $3.
Fort Branch Supply, PO Box
222, Hamilton, NC 27840. 919798-2671. Period military equipment, including
wooden canteens.
Jarnigan, PO Box 1860,
Corinth, MS 38834. 601-287-4977. Full-service supplies for reenactors.
Owens Accouterments, 1639
Belvedere Boulevard, Silver Springs, MD 20902. 310-681-7462. Manufacturer of
museum-grade haversack, scabbards, and other leather goods.
Rapidan River Canteen Co.,
16205 Trainham Road, Beaver Dam, VA 23015. 804-449-6431. Confederate wooden
canteens.
Regimental Quartermaster, PO
Box 553, Hatboro, PA 19040. 215-672-6891. Reproduction weapons, uniforms and
equipment. Catalog $2.
S&S Firearms, 74-11
Myrtle Avenue, Glanedale, NY 11385. 718-479-1100. Fax 718-497-1105. Antique and
reproduction firearms, gun parts, and other equipment for reenactors. Catalog
$3.
Spencer Firearms, Inc., 5 S.
Main Street, Sullivan, IL 61951. 217-728-7128.
Tentsmiths, PO Box 496, North
Conway, NH 03860. 603-4472344. Fax 603-447-2344. Period tenting. Catalog $2.
Reenacting For Men
Rank
If you're not an officer or
noncommissioned officer (corporal of sergeant) you will, obviously, be a member
of the ranks. How do you rise from this lowly status? Just as in the real
military world, you have to earn your promotion within your own particular
unit.
There are some exceptions to
this, although often the recipients of these unearned ranks are not well
thought of, nor do they receive the respect they think they should. Horse
owners often award themselves officer status in the cavalry, dress for effect,
and spend much of their time ordering around members of the infantry, over
which they have no authority.
The one real exception where
assumed rank is acceptable is in the artillery. A canon is a very expensive
piece of equipment. A reproduction three-inch ordnance rifle, for example, can
cost upwards of $10,000; the caisson and other equipment can cost as much
again; a 12 pounder bronze Napoleon can cost $25,000. It's no wonder, then,
that the owner of such a piece should be a lieutenant or captain of artillery.
His dedication to reenacting, not to mention his investment, deserves no less.
The owner of a canon and all its accouterments will also be the one who will
recruit his gun crew, and will rank them according to position on the gun and
skill in operating the weapon. He and his crew, however, will be expected to
fall under the command of the officer, usually a colonel or general, that's in
overall command of the field, Union or Confederate.
You will be expected to show
proper respect to all who rank above you, including civilian reenactors. Often
officials of the times - state governors, congressmen, senators, cabinet
members, even Presidents Lincoln or Davis - are portrayed by reenactors. Should
you encounter such individuals, you will be expected to come to attention,
present arms, salute, just as you would in a real situation.
You will also be expected to
pay your respects to lady reenactors: act with deference and courtesy.
Civilian Roles
Some reenactors prefer a less
organized role in the field. These might include, but are not limited to,
doctors, photographers, preachers, blacksmiths, sutlers, and so on.
Unfortunately, the cost of the authentic equipment needed to support these
roles is often prohibitive. Even so, these reenactors are essential to the
overall ambiance of the event and there should be a place for one and all. If
you do decide upon a civilian role, you should always check with the organizers
of each event to make sure you will be accepted in your chosen capacity, and
that they will set aside a location from which you can operate.
One more thing, if you do
decide to play a civilian role, you should know as much about it as possible.
The chances are you will be bombarded with questions from both military
reenactors and the spectators, so you'd better be knowledgeable and ready to
answer.
Reenacting For
Women
Women played many important
roles in the conflict between the states. Most played supporting roles:
seamstresses, letter writers, cooks, laundresses, and so on. Most nurses of the
times, however, were men. Today, at reenactments, you'll see women everywhere,
except on the battlefield, dressed in period costume. Most are spectators,
wives of reenactors that enjoy playing a part just as much as their erstwhile
partners on the field. These ladies also play an important role at the dress
balls that are becoming more and more part of the larger events. These are
happy events where the men wear dress uniforms and the ladies their finest
gowns.
Rules of the Game
As already mentioned, your
first responsibility is to learn and become familiar with the etiquette and
manners of the period. Then, from the moment you step into uniform and onto the
field, until you leave it again, stay in character. You'll adopt the demeanor,
customs, speech patterns and social behavior that reflect the times. In short,
you should become the person you are trying to portray, at least for the
weekend.
At first, it will seem
strange to be addressed by your fellow reenactors in the speech patterns of a
by-gone era. You might even be tempted to laugh. Don't. This is serious
business.
Always obey orders given by
your superior officers, just as you would be expected to if you were a member
of a modern military unit.
Safety and consideration for
yourself, your fellow reenactors, and for the private property upon which most
events take place, should always be first in your thoughts and actions. Reenacting
can be dangerous. After all, even though live ammunition is never used, the
weapons involved still can inflict serious wounds: bayonets, blank rounds, etc.
Never engage in hand-to-hand
fighting, unless it's fully scripted and supervised.
When under fire, stay with
your unit at all times.
If you do get hurt, or feel
sick, go down and don't hesitate to call for assistance. You should understand,
however, that such a call will immediately stop all the action.
Never move in front of, or
get too close to, artillery units. Reenactors' cannon are usually charged with
a one-pound load of black powder; the resulting blast at close range can do a
great deal of damage. A ramrod placed across the mouth of a cannon means
there's a live round in the barrel; a ramrod upright against a wheel of the
cannon means the weapon is loaded and ready to fire.
When loading your own rifle,
never use a ramrod. Black powder leaves a thick, sticky residue that can cause
your ramrod to become stuck in the barrel. Also, it has been known, in the heat
of the action, for a ramrod to be accidentally fired from the weapon; the
result can be deadly.
It also goes without saying
that bayonets should never be fixed on the field. In fact, they should be tied
safely in their scabbards where they can do no harm.
It was not unusual for Civil
War regiments to lose a third, even 50%, of their number during a battlefield
engagement. This is usually also the case at reenactments. Don't be afraid to
take a hit now and again. You can die on the field, or simply fall wounded. If
you do, you can make all the noise you want. Wounded men of the day screamed in
agony, called for their loved ones, and yelled for help; you can do the same.
Don't overact, though, and don't fool around. Remember, you will often be
reliving actual historical events, and you should respect the memory of the men
who really did die.
When you take a hit, you
should fall forward. This will prevent you from falling into someone behind
you, or from falling on a rock or something you can't see that might do you
harm. When on the ground, protect your weapon by lying on it, and lie still.
Sunglasses, or modern
eyeglasses for that matter, should not be worn at reenactments. If you must
wear eyeglasses, you should try to find an old pair of the period and have your
prescription lenses fitted to them. Sometimes, at the larger opthamologists,
you can find reproduction frames. Ovals were most common during the period, but
it was not unusual to find hexagonals. If you can't find something that works,
you might want to try contacts.
Sunstroke and heat exhaustion
can sometimes become a problem at reenactments. The days are long and hot, the
uniforms hot, heavy and uncomfortable, and you might need to spend several
hours on your feet. Keep your canteen full and drink plenty of water. Keep the
top of your head covered and, especially, your neck; wear a wide-brimmed hat or
a bandanna.
During the winter, cold can
be a problem, too. Wool uniforms are great insulators, but only to a point.
Thermal underwear should be worn under the uniform; period gloves, if you can
find them, will keep your hands warm, but an old pair of woolen socks will do
just as well; never wear modern gloves. As to keeping your feet warm, try
wearing a plastic bag between two pairs of socks.
Finally, always look to your
own safety and that of others.
