From Mayflower by Nathaniel Philbreck:
They spent Monday exploring
what was to become their new home. They sounded the harbor and found it
suitable for ships the size of the Mayflower. They ventured on land, but
nowhere in either Of Plymouth Plantation or Mourt's
Relation, the book Bradford and Winslow wrote after their first year in America, is
there any mention of a Pilgrim stepping on a rock. Like Cape Cod to the
southeast, the shore
of Plymouth Bay is
nondescript and sandy. But at the foot of a high hill, just to the north of a
brook, was a rock that must have been impossible to miss. More than twice as
big as the mangled chunk of stone that is revered today as Plymouth Rock, this two-hundred-ton granite boulder loomed above the
low shoreline like a recumbent elephant. But did the Pilgrims use it as a
landing place?
At half tide and above,
a small boat could have sailed right up alongside the rock. For these
explorers, who were suffering from chills and coughs after several weeks of
wading up and down the frigid flats of Cape Cod,
the ease of access offered by the rock must have been difficult to resist. But
if they did use it as their first stepping-stone onto the banks of Plymouth Harbor,
Bradford never made note of the historic
event. That would be left to subsequent generations of mythmakers.
They marched across the
shores of Plymouth
"and found divers cornfields and little running brooks, a place (as they
supposed) fit for situation." Best of all, despite the signs of
cultivation, they found no evidence of any recent Indian settlements. The next
day they boarded the shallop and sailed for the Mayflower
with the good news.
It had been a long
month of exploration. Later, when looking back on their trek across the wastes
of Cape Cod, Bradford could not help but see
their wintry walkabout in biblical terms. New World Israelites, they had, with
God's help, finally found their Canaan. But
back then, in the late afternoon of Tuesday, December 12, as the shallop approached the Mayflower, Bradford and his
compatriots had little reason to believe they had found the Promised Land.
Plymouth Harbor
was commodious, but much of it was so shallow that a ship the size of the Mayflower,
which drew twelve feet, must anchor more than a mile from shore. The
harbor was also without a navigable river to provide access to the country's
interior. It was true that there were no Native settlements nearby, but that
didn't mean they would be immune to attack. The Indians in the region had
already surprised them once; it would probably happen again. Worst of all,
they were approaching what Bradford called
"the heart of winter," and many of them were sick; indeed, some were
on the verge of death.
And then that evening, Bradford received what would have been, for many men, the
final blow. He learned that five days before, Dorothy May Bradford, his wife of
seven years and the mother of his three-year-old son, John, had slipped over
the side of the Mayflower and drowned.
Bradford
never wrote about the circumstances of his wife's death. Much later in the
century, the Puritan historian Cotton Mather recorded
that Dorothy Bradford had accidentally fallen overboard and "was drowned
in the harbor." That she fell from a moored ship has caused some to wonder
whether she committed suicide.
Dorothy certainly had
ample reason to despair: She had not seen her son in more than four months; her
husband had left the day before on his third dangerous trip away from her in as
many weeks. On the same day the shallop had departed,
seven-year-old Jasper More, one of the four children placed on the Mayflower
by their cuckolded father, I died in the care of the Brewster family. Two
other More children would die in the months ahead. For Dorothy, whose own young
son was on the other side of the Atlantic, the
plight of these and the other children may have been especially difficult to
witness.
We think of the Pilgrims as
resilient adventurers upheld by unwavering religious faith, but they were also
human beings in the midst of I what was, and continues to be, one of the most
difficult emotional challenges a person can face: immigration and exile. Less
than a year later, another group of English settlers arrived at Provincetown Harbor and were so overwhelmed by this
"naked and barren place" that they convinced themselves that the
Pilgrims must all be dead. In fear of being forsaken by the ship's captain,
the panicked settlers began to strip the sails from the yards "lest the
ship should get away and leave them." If Dorothy experienced just a
portion of the terror and sense of abandonment that gripped these settlers,
she may have felt that suicide was her only choice.
Even if his wife's death had
been unintentional, Bradford believed that God
controlled what happened on earth. As a consequence, every occurrence meant something.
John Howland had been rescued in the midst of a gale at sea, but Dorothy, his
"dearest consort," had drowned in the placid waters of Provincetown Harbor.
The only clue Bradford
left us about his own feelings is in a poem he wrote toward the end of his
life.
Faint not, poor soul, in God still trust,
Fear not the things thou suffer must;
For, whom he loves he doth chastise,
And then all tears wipes from their eyes.